Second Rebuild

 

  

 

      (Updated: 23 Mar 2008)  

 

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Maintenance is as much art as it is science.

--Unknown

 

 

 

 
  To the left is a pic of the throttle body.  I'm holding the throttle wide open so you can see how the screws securing throttle blades protrude into the air stream.  The left blade has been removed.  Pic to the right is of the screw I'm using to replace the stock throttle blade screws.      
         
  After the throttle blades were removed, I drilled and taped the throttle shaft holes to the size of the new screws.  Pic to the right is of the new screw compared to two of the original screws.  
          
  I had to countersink the holes in the throttle blade to accommodate the new screw heads.  I installed the throttle blades screws with some Loctite then ground off the excess length so they were flush with the throttle shaft.           
          
  Box of 8 new SRP forged pistons to the left.  File fitting the Total Seal gapless piston rings on the right.                 
             
  Checking ring end gaps on the left.  Pic of a Callies forged connecting rod on the right.        
           
  To the left are 8 new rod bearings, cleaned, sorted and ready to go.  To the right is a pic of the block with the main bearings installed.          
          
  Here's a couple of pics of the ARP main bearing cap stud kit installed.  The bolts with the extended length are used to support the windage tray.  I didn't realize it at the time but I later had to remove one of the extended studs and replace it with a short one to allow room for the oil dip-stick and tube.  
            
  I had to drill an additional hole in the windage tray to accommodate one of the studs in the ARP stud kit.       
          
  Pic I took at random of a lobe on the Comp Cam.  To the right is a pic of the end of the new Comp Cams custom grind camshaft I'm using.  Specs are 218/224 on 114,  mild for a 383.  
         
  Here I'm measuring the compression height-- the difference between the cylinder deck and the piston crown.  This clearance DIRECTLY affects compression ratio and was the 'Wild-Card' of this whole project.  A stock LT1 is about .030 with a compression ratio of 10.4:1.  This measurement was ZERO on my last 383 sending the c/r way too high.  I'd be happier with a little more clearance than .009 but I can compensate a little by using a thicker cylinder head gasket.  I calculate the compression ratio to be about 10.5:1 this time around.     
          
  Here's the block with the windage tray and oil pump installed.    
   

  

   
  Look closely at the pic on the right and you can see why I had to install a shorter stud on bearing cap number 4.  The dip-stick is perfectly lined-up with it.  Good thing I discovered this now and not after the engine was back in the car!!!!     
         
  Pic on the left is of the front of the block with the water pump drive shaft installed.  Pic to the right is of the cam being degreed.  It came in perfectly on spec at 110.  Go Comp Cams!!!     
         
   

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