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The Original Lycoming Rotisserie Engine Stand (Remember: You saw it here first!)
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(Updated: 03 Sep 2009) |
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Okay, here it is! I finally got around to putting my Lycoming Engine Stand pictures online. nt> |
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Problem: How does one store a Lycoming aircraft engine so that it may be moved around the shop easily and rotated occasionally to keep oil on the internal engine components? Solution: Use this simple method to adapt a Lycoming engine to a standard automotive engine stand. I've had my engine mounted in this manner for several years now and I've never had any problems. It's nice to be able to rotate the engine every couple of weeks or so to keep oil on the internal engine components. My engine is an O320-D2J which, I believe, uses a Dynafocal-1 mount. If your engine uses Dynafocal-2 or Lord mounts, you may need to 'adjust' the dimensions of the engine stand parts accordingly. Click on the thumbnails below for a larger image and enjoy! --Mike |
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Materials List 2-- 3 foot lengths of 3/8" threaded rod from Home Depot or Lowe's. $2.58 ea 8-- 3/8 x 16 nuts to fit the above threaded rod. $.08 ea 8-- standard dia. washers to fit the threaded rod. $.07 ea 4-- large (3/8" x 1 1/2" outside dia.) washers to fit the threaded rod. $.18 ea 1-- 4 foot length of 3/4" x 80 galvanized pipe from Home Depot or Lowe's. $7.78 |
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Here's a picture of the automotive engine stand I started out with. Its capacity is 1250 pounds and was made by Vanguard. It's at LEAST twenty-five years old and I don't know if they're still available... but you should be able to find a similar one. |
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Begin by cutting the 4' pipe into two 2' lengths using a 90 degree cut. Next, cut each 2' pipe in half by using a 30 degree cut in the center. A miter box and hacksaw work fine for this. You should end-up with 4 pipes of equal length each with a 30 degree angle on one end and a 90 degree on the other as shown in this picture. |
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Slip each of the four pipes over the weldments of the engine stand head. The inside diameter of the pipe fit over the weldments of my engine stand PERFECTLY! |
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Cut (in half) both of the threaded rods into two 18" lengths. You should end-up with four 18'' lengths of threaded rod. |
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Make a 30 deg. bend in each piece of the threaded rod about 2 inches from one end. Leave the opposite end of the rod straight. |
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Insert the bent end of the threaded rod into each of the 4 Lycoming engine mount holes from the back (accessory) side of the motor. |
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Install a small washer and nut on each of the 4 threaded rods as shown. | |||||
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Install a large diameter washer onto each of the 4 threaded rods from the accessory side as shown. | |||||
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Another view of the large washer on the threaded rod as it contacts the Lycoming motor mount flat from the accessory side. | |||||
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Position the engine in front of the engine stand and insert each of the 4 threaded rods into the corresponding 4 pipes of the engine stand. | |||||
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Mating the Lycoming to the engine stand. |
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Position the arms of the engine stand so that pipes run 'straight' into the back of the Lycoming engine as shown and lock them down. | |||||
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Rotate each of the pipes so that the 30 degree slant-cut matches the 30 degree angle of the Lycoming mounting points. | |||||
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Install a washer and a nut on each of the threaded rod ends where they exit the engine stand mounting arms. Tighten the nuts until they are just 'snug'... there's no need to tighten them beyond a few foot-pounds. | |||||
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Engine stand with the Lycoming engine at 90 degrees. | |||||
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Engine stand with the Lycoming engine at 180 degrees. | |||||
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